Loch Leven Lake Trail - Tahoe National Forest, Ca

June 16 & 17, 2012 - Loch Leven Lakes Trail - Tahoe National Forest, Ca.

This week had pup and I headed back into the Tahoe National Forest, but this time included alpine lakes and an overnight stay. While it is possible, if ambitious, to complete this hike in a day, we opted for an overnight so as to try out my new backpack, stove and bear canister.

The trail head is a little secluded so keep your eyes open, however the mere popularity of the trail, and accompanying cars is a good give away. Head up I-80 towards Reno. Take the Big Bend/ Hwy 40 exit and turn left. Not even a half mile up the road you'll see a parking lot on the left (likely full) and a small bathroom. This is the only man-made bathroom on the trail, don't get too excited, it's a pit toilet. Park anywhere you can, be it in the parking lot, or on the shoulder. On this particular Saturday we had to park 75 yards down the road on the shoulder.

Directly across from the bathroom is the trail head, marked only by a post and a small sign. Get used to this. As we found out the hard way, trail signs are not only... challenging to find, but also rather creatively located. The trail starts at the base of a granite ridge and zig zags up the mountain. The trail description provided by the ranger station tells that the trail starts in a southwesterly direction as you climb the hill. Keep this in mind as you search for trail markers. After a few initial switchbacks the trail leads round the west side of the mountain along the right side of a small stagnant lake and across a buried pipeline. It also warns that the trail is difficult to find in the winter months. (psst... it's difficult to find all the time, as much of this trail we only discovered on the hike out. Somehow it's easier to find the trail home. Go figure.)

Trail Markers!

Be warned that trail markers (three stacked rocks along the edges of trails) are a bit more flexible in location and information. For example, as we hiked in more of a southeasterly direction following trail signs we joked that perhaps we were following a Bart Simpson trail, and perhaps we were right. Who's to say who marks the trail? We assumed that good natured hikers were marking our way, however we discovered that some good natured hikers were lost too. After an hour, and approximately a mile loop that managed to head directly over the tallest mountain on the ridge, we found the buried pipeline that was also mentioned on the trail description. Following this makeshift road back west, we ran back into the main trail and rejoined just in time to find the bridge that crosses the river.  The river marks the approximate mile mark.
Just past the creek you'll find a railroad track. Small history lesson here: This still active track was build by Chinese labor back in the day and continues to be used to transport cargo and passengers. From our experience the cargo train passes through around 12:30 on Saturdays. I highly recommend taking a pause either by the creek or tracks as the next 1.25 miles gains approximately 800 feet of elevation via boulders and gravel. This part is a doozy. With a steady pace, and a few much needed breaks, we reached the top in just over an hour.

Just over the top brings you to the first of the three lakes. (we actually found five lakes not counting the third of the Loch Leven, but perhaps I'm just splitting hairs) As the trail description states the first lake is nice but quite popular and consequently rather busy. Sparse campfire pits are located throughout the area as are a few nice shady spots for a lunch break, just be sure to pull out the bug spray. Even at 2:30 in the afternoon the mosquitoes were out in force.  We stopped here for a nice lunch of hummus and red peppers and let the pup get her feet wet in the lake. As you traverse the west side of the lake you'll come across a fork in the trail. Straight ahead leads to the second and third lake, while a right turn will take you to Salmon lakes that is, ironically, not a popular fishing lake. There is said to be another trail head and hike that leads into Salmon lake offering wildflowers and more seclusion that I will perhaps attempt on another weekend.

Continuing on to the second lake brings you out of the shade and onto a granite outcropping with a great view of the valley and a much cleaner, more swimmer friendly lake. The camping here is tricky as there isn't much protection from the elements. The trail heads around the lake, counter-clockwise and back up the east side. The trail returns to creative signage, incorporating orange spray paint, and becomes more tricky to navigate. To get to the third lake, which is rumored to be the best, head up the east bank, between it and a another smaller lake (unnamed) until you find the trail the veers east and up to the final lake.

Due in part to our added cargo, late start, getting "lost" and the heat we stopped at the second lake. Here we lost the trail and heard tale that the final lake was "over two ridges and full of mosquitoes." That was about all we needed to hear. We dropped our bags and made camp. Come to find out it was not a moment too soon. It seemed the pup had a bit too much of the hot gravel and upon inspection I found numerous blisters and sores on her worn out pads. This was the first realization of the trip that this little girl was a trooper. As soon as we stopped, she dropped where she stood and refused to move an inch. Mind that she, up to this point, had not whimpered or even limped for the entirety of the hike in.

The camping was mostly uneventful, and I'll spare you much of the boring details. Highlights include the realization that one can have too many instant mashed potatoes, over packing leads to sore backs, I have a new love for the Jetboil system, pack plenty of bug spray when camping near lakes, not to mention sunscreen, and after a long hike nothing quite hits the spot like a little protein and sugar. We were ready for bed long before the sun set, but we sat inside the tent and watched the clouds as the circling rescue helicopter lulled us to sleep. *Remember that when camping and cooking in the California National Forest you need to obtain a campfire permit. You can get them in person or online for free. This one worked for us, but be sure to check and make sure it will work for you too.* 


Pup licked her sore feet through the night and I worried about her ability to hike out the next day, seriously considering the possibility of having to carry her out. I had originally planned to hike to Salmon Lake on the way out and investigate the alternate trail, but with pup limping like she was walking on hot coals, I decided that a direct hike out would be best. I was also glad I brought along her hiking boots. about 15 minutes of rather awkward walking pup was back to normal, almost, and we started our hike out. I also opted to carry her pack for her as well to give her muscles a little more of a break. Thirty minutes down the trail a squirrel crossed our path and as pup took off with the thud of her boots hitting the soil in pursuit I figured she was doing alright. (Once again so glad I packed her boots.)

Pup, with her hiking boots, enjoying a
rest in the wildflowers.

While the trail in took four and a half hours (with our detour), the hike out took just over two, including a long break in the shade by the railroad tracks. This trail is much more challenging than the our previous hikes starting at an approximate elevation of 6000 feet and climbing to approximately 6800 feet but water is plentiful for refills as long as you pack a filtration or sanitizing system. In all it was a great hike to break in the backpack and other gear and a great reminder to pack light!

Looks like someone forgot the pack light!

Pros: Beautiful lakes, interesting hike, cooler temperatures due to altitude.

Cons: Long drive (an hour and thirty past Auburn), steep terrain, and heavy use.

Rating: 4/5 for difficulty, 4/5 for pleasantness.