Once again, barring the plane trip, customs and other navigation hazards, once you find yourself on the other side of the Pacific in the Hauraki Gulf you'll find yourself a short ferry ride from the base of a volcano that overlooks the city of Auckland.
Look for the Ferry Building at the end of Queen's Street in Auckland and pay the $27 NZ dollars for a round trip to Rangitoto. (Side note you can find discounts in the various tourist guides around town which could save you a few bucks.)
The ferry takes about a half an hour with a quick stop on Davenport. Be sure to take the early ferry as there are only a few returning ferries, and they have no problem leaving you on the island all night if you miss it. I happened to go on a weekday in the winter, so not only were there only two returning ferries for the entire day, but I was one of three hikers at the dock. The first ferry on a weekday leaves Auckland at 9:15, giving you a decent amount of time to hike and catch the 12:45 return ferry, and ample time to catch the 3:30pm ferry (the last one of the day).
Another note, there are no facilities on the island. There is rumor of a bathroom, however bring any snacks and water with you. You can buy some things on the ferry, but you'll pay dearly for them.
Once you are dropped off on the dock head toward the building. You'll see some rather interesting signs discussing the various flora and fauna as well as some history. The island has rather unique plant life due to the volcanic rock and heat. It used to be a vacation spot and there are some old rustic cabins (bach houses) along the shore that you can visit as well, just keep an eye on the time.You'll also find a Volcanic Explorer Tour that starts at the dock and travels up the volcano via a paved road and a tractor. It costs about $60 for an adult and half that for a child. Of course if a tractor trip is your speed you are reading the wrong blog.
Once past the fist half mile or so you will leave the exposed gravel path and enter the more lush portion of the hike. Birds, ferns and Pohutukawa abound. The shade is welcome at this point. I started the hike in jeans, and multiple layers to combat the cold wintry weather and ended up in a tank top shortly into the hike.
As you hike you'll see a few offshoots to other trails such as the Kidney Fern Walk, Wilson's Park Track, and the Lava Caves. I skipped the first, and headed for the third. (Don't worry we'll come back to the Wilson Track later.) Just over thirty minutes will bring you to a shaded open area with a random shed off to the right. In front of you will be wooded steps and the trail to the summit. We'll come back to this, however first head to the right, behind the shed and off to find the lava caves. I hope you brought a "torch" (flashlight) or have one on your cell phone.
The Lava Cave trail is a loop. You'll come to the first one on your left. It's not easy to miss, it's the big hole in the ground. If you are brave enough (remember there are no snakes in New Zealand and nothing that will kill you) then head into the first cave and out the other side. You'll have to do some minor bouldering on the way out so make sure you are fit enough to climb over a few rocks. Even though I could see the exit I still found myself getting a bit nervous and jumpy.Once out the other side continue down the rocky path to the second cave. This one is a bit more ominous, and significantly longer. If you look closely you'll see light at the "end" of this one too, however the "end" is actually the middle, and the actual end is out of sight. Of course by this time you'll have already come halfway and be inclined to finish it having not died yet. Do it. It's worth it.
Unfortunately this is the end of the trail and you'll need to turn back. I imagine there are more caves in the area, but being a solo hiker, and keeping an eye on my watch, I deemed it in my best interest to keep to the trail and hustle back to find the summit. Head back to the shed and this time continue straight up the wooden steps once again on the "Main Track." Not far past this juncture you'll come across the more wooden steps leading both left and right. This is the accessible path used by those tractor folks. The actual trail continues on and loops around to the summit. Either trail will work, and in consideration of time I took the wooden steps up and to the left.
On a clear day the summit offers views of Auckland, and other various beaches and islands in and around the gulf. You can even see the dock where you started this trip and get an idea of just how far you've traveled.
The map supplied by the ferry building has multiple hikes and roads that traverse the island. They even include estimated times. I wanted to explore more of the island, but again was watching my clock. The trip up, including the cave detour took about an hour and a half, which gave me about an hour and half to get back to the ferry building. I considered multiple options then decided on a slightly alternate route back (I dislike backtracking). If you don't have the time head back the way you came, and simple enough, you'll be back at the dock in about an hour. If, like me you like a little adventure, not to mention some of the most interesting trail to date, then keep reading.
For the return trip head down the wooden steps to the "Summit Road." After looking both ways for tractors ;) head to the left, down hill. a quarter mile or less of the riveting road will bring you to a trail sign pointing to "Wilson's Park Tract." The trail head is a little more difficult to find but once you are on it, it is simple enough to follow. This trail winds in around, up and down back toward the crater and the Main Track. Take your time here as it is slippery, narrow and rather breath taking. The map indicates this trail takes about 20 minutes which is accurate if not a little shy. I'd plan for 25-30 minutes until it spits you back out on the Main Track. At this point head back down the hill and, if there is still time, you can attempt the Kidney Fern Walk, or visit the houses up and down the Coastal Road.This hike, dock to dock took about 2.5 hours, not including the Kindey Fern Walk, and I was back on the ferry with a few minutes to spare. There are many more hikes, including a Coastal Track that heads east to Islington Bay Wharf and some historic homes, that I was unable to try on this venture, but would like to do the next time I find myself on this particular volcano.
Pros: Scenic, simple, interesting lava caves, great coastal weather, and birds.
Cons: Don't miss the last ferry.
Rating: 2/5 for difficulty, 5/5 for pleasantness
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